IGUAZU FALLSSS

Buenassssss~ this is essentially a play-by-play of my iguazu weekend - specially designed for my family members who truly want to read every detail but lack the internet connection on both ends to facetime. Que disfrutan! (Enjoy) :)

It is currently 10:35 AM on a gorgeous day in Cataratas, Argentina. I'm sitting on a charter bus about 19 hours out of Buenos Aires. Cassidy, Jordan and I took a long weekend trip to see the world famous Iguazu Falls, one of the new 7 natural wonders of the world. We signed up to travel with Argentina For All, an organization that takes big groups of international students and porteños to the falls. $2450 pesos ($199 USD) bought each of us a seat on the 20 hour bus ride both ways, two nights in a very homey hostel, free entry to Club Casanova for two nights, and last but not least, free breakfasts (three large croutons and coffee..lol). I would say it's a good deal, but for those of you who might be interested in following our lead, take the trip privately or through a different group- ours was pretty disorganized and inefficient. Logistical flaws aside, it was an incredible experience and I urge all travelers in Argentina to take the time to go see the falls.

Friday: We had to be on the other side of town around 3pm. Poor Jordan and Cassidy thought I had slept through all my alarms or just vanished because we couldn't communicate since all forms of communication had mysteriously failed us. The wild goose chase for the missing person ended when Cassidy ninja-ed her way into my apartamento and whisked me away to the magical Subway across the street to grab sandwiches before our departure. 

We then picked up Jordan and cabbed to the buses, where we quickly realized that we Americans were vastly outnumbered by loud, friendly Spaniards, hilarious Germans, lovely Danish girls and of course some Frenchies. Most are about our age. There were actually about ten other Americans on our trip, who unfortunately were simply the most obnoxious humans I've ever met. I was actually really glad though because that gave us the opportunity to exit our comfort zone and fraternize with people from other places. The bus ride ended much more quickly than I had anticipated and we were dropped off at our hostels. Because there were 250+ of us we had to stay in different places. At Hotel Raíces, each room (cabaña) sleeps 5, so the three of us had to very quickly recruit two lucky ladies to share a living space for the weekend. We lucked out with Katie and Sarah, two of the sweetest, most adorable German girls I have ever met. First of all, their English is truly amazing. Katie speaks impeccably. I was pretty mind blown that they came to Argentina to learn their THIRD language, but as it turns out, most people from other countries are bilingual (judging by the people on this trip).

Saturday: We arrived around 11 AM, so we hit the ground running. And by running I meant sitting because all of the 200 others headed to the Brazil side of Iguazu. We Americans have to jump through many hoops to get the visa to cross Brazil's borders, along with paying a super expensive reciprocity fee, so we sat that one out. (I will definitely make my way to Brazil this semester though, mark my words!) We instead walked about the tiny town and lunched with one of our program leaders, Barry. Although we certainly enjoyed ourselves, it was a little disappointing to not be able to see the falls until day two. BUT the wait was definitely so worth it! That night, all 250+ of us walked parade-style to Casanova, a local boliche. Terrified of a hangover, we went home "early," at about 4 AM. We laughed because the next day we overheard the Americans boasting about how they'd stayed out til 4:30. Nerds!!!

We woke up a few hours later for our crouton breakfast and hit the road to Iguazu National Park. This area is much farther north than BA, so it's SUPER warm and sunny and wonderful outside. Without a cloud in the big blue sky, the day could not have been more perfect to see the falls. We arrived at noon and spent about 5 hours in the park. It's pretty massive so we took a cute little tram closer to the falls. We freely explored the upper trails for an hour where we were standing right at the top of the falls and could watch the tons of water cascading down hundreds of feet. 

It's just so incredibly cool. The air was super fresh as well, which is a refreshing change of pace from being in a big city with lots of smokers. After we enjoyed an authentic Argentinian lunch (aka a ham and cheese sandwich.. They can't get enough of the stuff), we set off for our Grand Excursion. The excursion was the best part by far- I'm so happy we bit the bullet and paid up because it was such an experience. We rode in a big ATV on a tour of part of the park while a guide with a microphone excitedly discussed the wildlife, etc. They dropped us off at the falls where we descended many stairs to board a big speedboat. It drove us through the murky rapids first, stopping for several photo ops at every angle of every waterfall. Finally, as our guide says, we got "the shower of the lifetime." (Broken English gets me every time lol).. But seriously y'all they drove us under the waterfalls several times and greatly enjoyed every second of the spectacle we made- we tourists were screaming in terror and delight all at the same time as we were soaked to the bone in some super fresh (but demasiado chilly) agua. 

                                             (right before we drove right into that waterfall ^)

My favorite part was walking back up the steps carved out of the cliff and covered in moss. Not only was it a fantastic view, but it was also the perfect spot for the perfect selfie (we had far too many efforts in vain earlier). We then headed home, ordered some brilliantly cheap empanadas (empanada delivery for $3 USD/person = yes) and prepared for our second night out. It was supposed to be a costume party-scratch that-it WAS a costume party.. There was just one too many sexy sailor costume for us to hop on that train, but we went out and ended up having a lot of fun dancing to the YMCA, among other other classics. The rude wakeup call at 7:30 was nothing once we had our gourmet crouton breakfast and immediately boarded the bus to continue our slumber. 

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It is now 5:35 PM. After only 3 hours of driving, we stopped at San Ignacio to see the ruins of a super old Jesuit church. The detour turned out to be three hours long. I don't think I'll ever get completely used to the way Argentines use their time, but the ruins were quite spectacular.

We are finally back on the road heading south! I'm seated next to Mona, the most beautiful and kind girl I've met here so far. She's from Denmark which is pretty cool because I knew less than nothing about her country until she sat with us on our porch last night and told us all about the culture and the very happy citizens. I've really enjoyed learning about other people, their homes and their cultures, especially outside of the Latin American perspective that I'm so accustomed to learning. 

We're supposed to get back around 6am. I can't wait- I miss my Elena! This weekend has been a combination of wonderful, strange and downright hysterical. We faced some frustration, but even more laughter. I'm glad we went with a group for our first trip, but from now on I believe we will fly solo. Next stop: Mendoza with my awesome parents who are visiting for my 21st birthday next month! Woohoo! Good times are all we've got down here y'all. I hope that was detailed enough for you, Mom, Dad, Jack, Granna & Papa! (You too, Brad).

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Update: my ankles are covered in poison ivy but it's all good because Argentine pharmacies basically dole out anything you could possibly need OTC. Somewhat concerning, but hey, I lucked out. Just a few blocks from my casa, the farmacía was full of friendly faces and an extremely kind, helpful woman who supplied me with all the medicine I need. Phew. It's always something....

More to come in a few days - we're going to our first parilla tomorrow! om nom.

Besitos!

las rubias y el machismo

Hellllooooooo friends. I wrote this a couple weeks ago - meant to post earlier but I want to tell y'all about my experience here as a young, blonde (rubia) white girl. Please don't mistake my thoughts for a negative mess; I don't want to sugar coat anything. 

Let me set the scene:

Cassidy and Neely walk from the subte station to the bar, restaurant, boliche, university, shoe store, etc. Approx. six blocks to the destination.

Cassidy asks a profound, interesting question.

Before I have time to think, a fellow pedestrian is piercing us with his grotesque stare, making strange kissy-noises and deeply cooing, “Ayy ay ay, que liiiindasss…" accompanied by a few grunts and an "ooooh yeaa." Simply horrifying, but we shudder and shake it off. And so do they. It's almost like they are programmed to do it without a thought. 

With some thought, I honestly answer Cassidy’s thought-provoking question as we pass the 152 bus stop.

What an interesting question, Cass! I for one belie——HONKKKK HONKKKK——…. The city bus has honked its bellowing horn as the driver licks his lips.. We keep walking.

Taxi drivers flash their brights, cyclists whistle, men ages 2-92 clap and holler. Even the SUBTE itself honked at us on our way out of the station. Walking anywhere in this city will never be boring. That’s for sure. The other day I was eyed by an elderly man, I'd say about 85 years of age. His eyes were hungrier than a drunk freshman waiting on her Boot Pizza. It did not feel great. 

I can’t help but wonder, “Who raised you people???!!!” That’s just the thing. Machismo is everywhere. It is one of Latin America’s oldest, and still pressing, issues. 

History lesson: Machismo is just what it sounds like: it's a strong sense of over-macho-ness. Centuries ago, "ser macho" or to be macho was the only thing little boys aspired to be. It was an embodiment of bravery, strength, courage, wisdom and leadership. 

    If my Latin American history serves me right, I believe machismo became quite the sensation during the colonization of Latin America. Caudillos, who were the macho-men/military dictators, often got their way through violence and authoritarianism. Machismo has been prevalent ever since, but lest we forget the equally important Marianismo, which is essentially the role a woman wa supposed to take on: in short, she must be as much like the Virgin Mary as possible. If she was unfaithful or non-devoted to being the perfect homemaker and mom, her community would hate on her big time. If a married man, on the other hand, sleeps with half the town and doesn't come home often, he would be celebrated as a strong, macho man. Ain't that some shit. (pardon)

Therefore, machismo has a lot to do with male superiority; in the late 20th century the word was used by Latin American feminists to express their disapproval with the aggression men show towards "their inferiors," las mujeres (women). Essentially, my point is that machismo still exists and is carried not only through the grotesque voices on street corners, but also through "ladies' night discounts" at bars, restaurants, theaters, etc. (not that I can hate on a discount, ammirite).

I never considered myself to be a feminist because at an all-girls high school, I always felt strong, smart and capable. But in the real world, women really do have to demand the respect that they deserve. Being here has made me incredibly thankful for the way things are at home; although in some situations I am discouraged by the words of my peers, I am not harassed at every corner of the street while wearing jeans and a turtleneck. 

When I arrived, I really didn't have that period of "culture shock time" that many people must endure when traveling to different countries. The catcalls are really the only bothersome aspect about being here, and I would consider that to be a successful transition, especially for a rubia like me.

Coming here, I knew that there were going to be plenty of blonde people because many Argentinians have German in their blood, but I didn’t realize how different I look from the others. Claudia, Elena’s daughter, asked me at our second ladies’ night, (roughly translated and paraphrased), “So do you ever sit in the sun? Can your skin allow it? What unique eyes you have. Your hair too. Is that natural?” News to me that I’m ~exotic~ but of course I’d take that compliment any day. 

For the first time in my entire life, I feel singled out for the way I look. It’s the strangest feeling and has been an immense reality check for me. Because I am such a gringa, I feel like the locals are inclined to speak English to me from the get-go, or at least have lower expectations for my Spanish speaking abilities. This theory of course is my biggest motivation to really kill the game and make them question my nationality with my flawless Castellano (argentine dialect) - Disclaimer - my Castellano needs work but I'm learning a little bit every day! Knowledge is power, you know.

Chao y'all 

party like it's 1999?

Hola boludos (bitchez),

Sorry I haven't posted in a while- I've composed a few notations over the past week which I will now post- happy reading and special thanks to my dear friend brad for nagging (motivating) me to keep posting :)

Something I've realized during my (almost) one month here in BA:

This is the nineties.

The longer I’ve lived here the more I believe it.

Imagine you’re walking down a street, let’s say calle Santa Fe, the 5th avenue, the St. Charles or even the Poplar avenue of BA. You look up. Dated (yet still wonderful) apartment buildings decorate the skyline. 

You look to your right. Shops selling red velvet bellbottoms, high waisted pants, belts and graphic tees. 

You look to your left. Clusters of high school girls wearing bright scrunchies on top of their heads. 

And finally, you look down. Every female age 8-88 is wearing your favorite pair of 90s platforms. And they’re rocking it. 

Flipping channels, Friends is on at least two channels at a time. It has become a little game of ours to point out “the little things” that allude to decades past, especially the 1990s. Honestly though, what makes this place so unique is the eclectic mix of old and new. Just don't be surprised when I come back to the states with a pair of plataformas for every season! 

With throwbacks on my mind, I bought myself some stationary with full intent to send some snail mail to my friends/family/homies/boludos in the northern hemisphere. We'll see if they make it over there! Feel free to send me your address if you'd like a postcard from my next getaway. I hope everyone had a fantastic weekend. (We sure did!) Back to the weekly grind- will post about our extraño weekend at Iguazu very, very soon.

Besos y'all 

getting my life together

Hola friends & fam,

My first week here in BA couldn't have been more perfect. Yes, it really is a dreamland in which I can do basically whatever my heart desires. However, classes begin this week, and yes, I really do have to go to class! If I've learned anything it is that I've taken my Tulane academic advisor for granted (s/o to my homie Monique Dupas). Signing up for classes has been quite a feat. There are no consolidated syllabi and finding the classes you need to fulfill certain credits is "to dream the impossible dream" (don quixote reference anyone....?) Lol. I digress. After Cassidy, Jordan and I spent about three hours at Starbucks, then another 4 hours in a school cafeteria (yo no sé), we found four of five classes. Phew. Life is just sooooo hard. Either way, classes begin on Tuesday at the University of Salvador, yahoo! We're taking an Argentine History course that will hopefully answer the embarrassing amount of questions we are always asking each other about the people and events that preceded our arrival. We're only going to have class on Tues, Weds and Thurs. (Viva la long weekend!!!!) As for tomorrow, I have a mountain of things to do to get my life in order.

First priority, Megatlon! Cassidy and I joined our friendly neighborhood gym that offers everything from machines to saunas to spinning to "kangaroo bounce class" (to be continued). Even with the always advantageous peso exchange, it's $ un poco caro to join for 6 months. I don't think I've seen a woman there who hasn't had just a touch of plastic surgery.. definitely some prime people watching. I'm glad we joined though; it's important to try to stay healthy in the midst of all the fun we've been having.. certainly wouldn't be a bad idea to work off the 8:30am pizza my friend Griff and I wearily, deliriously devoured after we had all stayed out til far past sunrise. Never an average night here in BA!

Tomorrow is also laundry day. It is laundry day because I have no more socks. Or pants. Or shirts. Here, most people don't have their own machines and instead frequent their neighborhood laundromat. From what I've heard, you bring your bag of dirty clothes to them - they wash, they fold, you pick up and pay. Simple.... right??

Tomorrow is going to be especially productive in the daytime because a) it gets dark before 6:00 and b) we are having Ladies' Night part II (!!!!!!) in honor of housemate and friend Felice, who is very sadly leaving us on Thursday to embark on her next big adventures. Ladies' night just can't be topped. Elena's other daughter from Costa Rica will be attending as well, so we'll have a full house! My friends on the other hand are going to a drum line which happens every Monday at dusk. Very much up my alley.

Yesterday we walked by the Government House, aka the Casa Rosada. We didn't go in but plan to when we have time. We did in fact take a tour of el Teatro Colón, BA's opera house. Boy, is it magnificent. The grandeur, the details, everything. Simply exquisite. It's a must-see for those of you who are coming to visit BA in the future - maybe even try to see an opera or a ballet while you're at it (cough cough mom n dad)! I've thoroughly enjoyed being a tourist here. No shame. Next on our list is the Recoleta Cemetery where Evita Perón is buried. RIP girl.

Today the three of us went to San Telmo, a simple yet somewhat lengthy commute via el Subte. San Telmo, from what I gathered, is a tad ghetto. Each sunday in San Telmo there is a giant market, where vendors set up booths and tents and put all their little treasures on display. There were a lot of copper and silver items, old records, trinkets, jewelry, lace, etc. It was marvelous. Walking down the streets of San Telmo felt almost surreal. The buildings are old, gorgeous, ornate European structures, coated in layers of graffiti. The juxtaposition was fascinating, yet a little depressing. It was almost like we were looking at modern-day ruins. (History lesson: in the late 1800s the yellow fever epidemic wiped out thousand of porteños, many of which lived in San Telmo. The situation was so dire that ports were closed and tenements were padlocked up, eventually leading to the abandonment of the area and ultimately causing the once very wealthy neighborhood to crumble.) Don't get me wrong though, San Telmo actually is really cool and there are plenty of shops and cute little restaurants to try, too.

It's been a weekend full of cultural enrichment and good times. I'm looking forward to starting (or attempting to start) a solid routine this week. I send all my love to my loved ones in the USA. Besos, y'all.

Nelly